Dewa Sanzan: Discover Japan’s Sacred Mountains of Rebirth
- Shunpei Nakayama
- 1 day ago
- 4 min read
Updated: 9 hours ago
Dewa Sanzan, located along the borders of Tsuruoka, Nishikawa, and Shonai in Yamagata Prefecture, refers to the three sacred mountains of Mount Haguro, Mount Gassan, and Mount Yudono.
During the Edo period, visiting these three mountains became known as a “Journey of Rebirth,” symbolizing a pilgrimage through the present, past, and future.
Mount Haguro – the present and prayers for happiness in the current life
Mount Gassan – the past and prayers for a peaceful afterlife
Mount Yudono – the future and prayers for rebirth
They were founded about 1,400 years ago, and each mountain represents a different stage of life.
A Journey Through Japan Heritage in Yamagata
Today, Dewa Sanzan is recognized as one of Japan Heritage sites, preserving Japan’s deep connection between nature, spirituality, and culture. This story continues the journey we began with Japan Heritage, exploring how each site tells a story that shapes Japan’s spirit beyond tourist spots.
“Japan Heritage” is an initiative by the Agency for Cultural Affairs of Japan that recognizes stories connecting history, culture, and local traditions across the country.
Each story is brought to life by local communities who preserve and share the tangible and intangible heritage that makes their region unique.
Learning stories behind each Japan Heritage site adds a deeper appreciation to the experience. Understanding the history shaped by local communities brings every landscape and tradition to life.
Dewa Sanzan and the Practice of Shugendo
Shugendo is a unique Japanese religion that teaches people to train both body and mind through mountain practice. The word Shugendo literally means “the path of training and gaining spiritual power.”
Since ancient times, Japanese people have believed that gods live in the mountains and have respected nature as sacred. Based on this mountain worship, Shugendo combines elements of Buddhism, Shinto, and Taoism, creating a practical way of spiritual training. Anyone, whether you are a monk or not, can practice it by climbing mountains, meditating in nature, and overcoming hardships to reach enlightenment and help others.
My father used to travel from Tokyo to Dewa Sanzan with members of his local community once every two or three years to practice Shugendo, the traditional mountain training. Our family still keeps old records of our ancestors’ pilgrimages to Dewa Sanzan, which shows how deeply this spiritual tradition has been connected to our roots.
Dewa Sanzan is known as one of Japan’s three major centers of Shugendo, along with Mount Hiko in Fukuoka and Yoshino in Nara.
Even today, many yamabushi (mountain monks) continue their training there, living in harmony with nature and keeping this ancient tradition alive.
Mount Haguro — The Present
Mount Haguro is known as the mountain where people pray for happiness in this world. From the entrance gate (Zuishinmon), a stone path of 2,446 steps goes up about 2 kilometers to the top of the mountain.
On both sides of the path stand tall cedar trees that are 300 to 500 years old.
As you walk along the path, you will see the “Grandfather Cedar,” more than 1,000 years old, and the beautiful Hagurosan Gojunoto (Five-Story Pagoda), which is a National Treasure of Japan.
The pagoda was first built in the mid-Heian period (931–938), rebuilt in 1372, and repaired in 1608. It is made of cedar wood and is 29 meters tall. Even after hundreds of years, it still stands proudly and is known as one of the Tohoku region’s oldest five-story pagodas.
Mount Gassan – The Past
Mount Gassan is the highest of the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan, standing at 1,984 meters. It is known as the mountain of the past, where people pray for peace and comfort after death.
Because the summit is covered in deep snow for most of the year, the main climbing route to the top is only open from early July to mid-September. During this short summer season, visitors can enjoy lush alpine flowers as they make their way toward Gassan Shrine at the summit.
Although the summit trails gradually close from mid-September onward, the broader Gassan area still transforms beautifully in autumn. Lower elevations—those not affected by early snowfall—are accessible longer into the season and offer spectacular views of colorful autumn leaves. Even outside the climbing season, the mountain’s surroundings remain an exceptional place to experience the changing landscape.
Mount Yudono – The Future and Rebirth
Mount Yudono is known as the mountain of the future, where people pray for rebirth and new beginnings.
The sacred area of Mount Yudono is unique; there are no large temples or shrines. Instead, the object of worship here is a massive ginger-colored rock that spouts hot water.
At the shrine, visitors take off their shoes and walk barefoot on the warm sacred rock, where hot spring water naturally flows from the mountain. This experience is said to wash away the past and welcome a new self, symbolizing spiritual rebirth.
What is Shojin Ryori and Shukubo?
A shukubo is a traditional lodging originally built for pilgrims visiting temples and shrines. During the Edo period, when pilgrimages became popular across Japan, there were said to be around 330 shukubo in the Dewa Sanzan area.
Today, 27 shukubo and inns remain in the Haguro area, and many are open to regular travelers.
By staying at a shukubo, visitors can experience Japan’s spiritual traditions, such as shojin ryori (traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, mainly featuring plant-based ingredients) and morning prayers with the monks.
My Reflections on Rebirth From the Sacred Mountains of Dewa Sanzan
Walking along the cedar path of Mount Haguro, surrounded by the morning mist, I felt a deep sense of calm.
Through learning about Shugendō and meeting the yamabushi, I could truly feel the connection between nature and people, along with the faith that has continued in Japan for centuries.
Dewa Sanzan is a very special place for me.
My family has visited these sacred mountains for generations, and I spent three years of high school at the foot of Mount Haguro.
Whenever I return, it feels nostalgic — like coming back to where I truly belong, and being part of this Japan Heritage: Dewa Sanzan project felt almost like destiny.
Through our different journeys across Japan with Japan Heritage, from Dewa Sanzan to the Nakasendo Trail, and more recently to Onomichi, I’ve come to realize one thing: travel in Japan always connects people, time, and their stories.