Footsteps in Time on the Nakasendo Trail

Walking the Nakasendo Trail: A Journey Through Japan’s Past

What if the most authentic way to experience Japan wasn’t through modern cities, but by walking the same paths as travelers from centuries ago?

The preserved post towns of Kiso Valley | Photo by: Jordan McChesney

At first glance, Japan is often seen as a country that is ahead of the future. Think urban cities, self-serving robots, and high-speed bullet trains. Well, that’s how many people picture it thanks to the advancement of technology. Japan’s extensive rail network makes it easy to reach even the most remote regions. But it wasn’t always this convenient to travel around.

Take Tokaido, for example. Once an ancient trail that played a crucial role in connecting cities, it is now the route of the modern bullet train.

Outside Japan’s futuristic image is a deeper layer of history, from preserved post towns to age-old stories that are remnants of its past.

To protect and share these cultural treasures, Japan’s Agency for Cultural Affairs created Japan Heritage as an official designation. It recognizes and promotes groups of historical assets, beyond tourist spots, telling stories and traditions, that offer a deeper understanding of Japan’s identity.

One of the most immersive ways to experience this heritage is by walking a trail that has connected people for centuries, way before the railway network was invented: the Nakasendo Trail.

The Nakasendo Trail: Japan’s Old Highway Through the Mountains

Stretching between Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto, two ancient highways once connected these great cities: the Tokaido and the Nakasendo. While the Tokaido followed the coastline and later became the route of the modern Shinkansen, the Nakasendo Trail carved a path through Japan’s central mountains. Known as the "Central Mountain Road," the Nakasendo was not just a travel route; it was a vital lifeline for samurai, merchants, and pilgrims, leaving a mark on Japan’s history.

Nakasendo’s cobblestone path | Photo by: Jordan McChesney

The Nakasendo Trail is also one of the routes recognized under Japan Heritage. During the Edo period, the government enforced the Sankin Kotai system, requiring feudal lords to travel regularly between their hometowns and Edo. This allowed the shogunate to maintain control while also fostering economic and cultural exchange. Along the route, post towns (juku) were established to accommodate travelers, offering food, lodging, and a place to rest.

Satomiya Shrine lies along the historic Nakasendo route and marks the first sacred stop on the Ontake Pilgrimage Trail.

Even today, many of these towns remain remarkably preserved, offering a glimpse into a Japan untouched by time.

The Post Towns: Untouched Time Capsules of the Edo Period

Once you reach a stone-paved road, you've arrived at Magome-juku. | Photo by: Jordan McChesney

The Nakasendo Trail is lined with post towns that stand as living reminders of Japan’s past. Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, once important stops for weary travelers, have been carefully preserved to maintain their Edo-era charm.

Tsumago-juku, the 42nd of the sixty-nine post towns on the Nakasendo route between Kyoto and Edo. | Photo by: Jordan McChesney

Narai-juku, one of the best-preserved towns on the trail, was known for its guesthouses and inns where both commoners and feudal lords could rest. Even today, some post towns have refused to renovate, determined to keep their original atmosphere intact.

Narai-juku, often referred to as "Narai of a Thousand Houses." | Photo by: Jordan McChesney

Exploring these towns feels like discovering an old chapter into the past. The wooden buildings, stone-paved streets, and local shops tell the stories of travelers who once passed through. And if you’re lucky enough to strike up a conversation with the locals, you may hear folktales of mountain pirates and the challenges of journeying through Japan’s rugged terrain.

An Untold Exclusive Experience: A Luxurious Zenagi Retreat

After a long day hiking the trail, there’s no better way to unwind than by retreating to a place where history and comfort come together.

The Expedition Hotel "Zenagi"

Offered through Untold Japan’s Exclusive Experiences, Zenagi is a luxury inn transformed from a centuries-old kominka farmhouse, beautifully mixed with historical charm and modern luxury. This private, all-inclusive retreat sits atop a hill, offering lovely views of terraced rice fields, only available for one booking at a time.

Zenagi offers an exclusive stay in an elegantly restored 300-year-old kominka, complete with three suite rooms. Its owner is deeply passionate about art and Japan’s heritage, and has created a space where guests can create deep-rooted connections between the locals and the surrounding mountains.

With a personalized, guided tour, you’ll navigate through the post town's history and the surrounding culture with insider knowledge from an expert guide.

From exploring ancient trails to waterfall hikes and river kayaking, Zenagi offers year-round activities that allow travelers to connect with both history and nature.

Step Into Japan’s Past with Japan Heritage

The Nakasendo Trail is truly a journey through Japan’s living history. By walking these ancient paths, staying in preserved post towns, and engaging with local traditions, travelers can experience a side of Japan that most will never see.

To get a closer feel for these post towns, take a look at the Nakasendo with Japan Heritage’s visual stories or simply book your exclusive experience to witness it firsthand!