Discovering the Art of Aizome: A Visit to Konni Aizome Indigo Dyeing Workshop

It's hard to put into words the experience of spending a day with an artisan. Photos and videos barely do it justice. It's one of those things that, when experienced firsthand, reveals the true brilliance of Japanese craftsmen.

First Impressions of a Hidden Gem Along an Old Country Side

Today, I had the privilege of spending the day at Konni, an ‘Aizome’ 藍染め (indigo dyeing) workshop in Nagaoka, Niigata Prefecture. Just a two-hour train journey and an additional 30 minutes by car from Tokyo, this incredible studio is nestled beside an old country road.

I was amazed as I walked through the Konni Studio and saw these incredible Hanten fabrics.

From the front, it looks like a typical old Japanese shop, with an old storefront that could be selling anything. However, the indigo-dyed ‘Noren’ 暖簾 (traditional fabric dividers) out front hint at something special for those in the know. Behind the first building, several larger storehouses display the Konni logo, indicating this is no ordinary shop.

Meeting With a 12th-Generation Craftsman

As we approached the first building, Matsui-san, the 12th-generation owner of this over 250-year-old establishment, greeted us. A fascinating man, Matsui-san is a mod enthusiast who loves everything about the scene—the music, the fashion, and the scooters. He even restored his own scooters and showed us his Vespa and Rabbit in his garage. Matsui-san tours Japan in his free time with the Tokyo Indians, a mod gang based in Tokyo. But I digress. Matsui-san welcomed us into the store, showcasing an assortment of items for sale, from ‘Tenugui’ 手拭い (hand towels) to handbags to masks—a new addition due to the pandemic. 

However, the prized item for which Konni is renowned is the ‘Hanten’ (袢纏). This traditional garment is worn by workers, craftsmen, and participants in ‘matsuri’ 祭り (festivals) across Japan, with various matsuris using Konni for their hanten.

Looking at the white strips of the Matoi banner meant that this studio has deep roots of Japan's heritage.

Matsui-san shared the history of Konni, dating back to the Edo period, when the town was a base for the revolutionary army of Japan. Konni was the go-to maker for the rebels. In the early 1900s, his great-grandfather perfected the craft, and the methods have remained unchanged since. The machinery they use today is the same as that used by his great-grandfather—as the saying goes, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

One of the highlights of this experience is seeing a hundred-year-old machine still being used today.

The Art of Aizome Indigo Dyeing: Ancient Techniques and Modern Practices

We spent the day touring the different workshops as Matsui-san explained the process of making a hanten. What sets Konni apart is that they not only dye the fabric but also make all the textiles themselves. 

The process of making the string to weave into a hanten or kimono is intricate and labor-intensive. Briefly, it involves unraveling the original wool, washing out excess oil, dyeing it in an array of colors, and re-rolling it into different size strings. These strings are then woven into fabric using the old machines. 

A huge selection of strings used for the sewing process

Each piece of string is woven into a 3-meter long, half-meter wide piece that will become one hanten. The fabric is then covered in a glue-like substance, and the hand-cut design for each hanten is applied. From the large back print to the wording on the lapel to the design around the bottom, all Hanten are handmade individually. Even the slightest misalignment can render a piece unusable.

A hanten being woven right before my eyes

Once the design is finalized, the fabric undergoes the indigo dyeing process, a traditional Japanese technique.

The red dye used in this technique, called ‘bengara’, is made from red clay found only in Bengal. The indigo dye itself is a living bacteria and must be kept at a specific temperature. Sinks of indigo are stored in the ground with water running around them to maintain the dye at 24-25 degrees Celsius. The depth of color depends on the dyeing process, after which the fabric is hung to dry. Finally, these 3-meter long pieces of fabric are crafted into hanten, ready to be worn at matsuri across Japan.

The traditional process of indigo-dyeing

The Untold History of Aizome

Interestingly, the common knowledge around Aizome is that it has been practiced in Japan for over 1,300 years since its introduction from China via the Korean Peninsula during the Nara period (710-794 AD). 

However, after sparking a conversation with Matsui-san, it appears that Aizome may actually have roots that stretch back over 3,000 years, potentially originating from India—with this insight suggesting that the true origins of Aizome remain somewhat uncovered, to this day.

Hand-made stencils used for Hanten

Experience Japan’s Centuries-Old Artistry

This is just a glimpse into the incredible work that goes on at Konni. To truly appreciate it, you must witness it firsthand—have your own hanten customized, inspired by countless festivals across Japan, and choose from a wide array of handwritten fonts, each with its own unique character.

Untold Japan offers the opportunity to visit this workshop and even have Matsui-san create a custom hanten for you. A unique, handcrafted piece of Japanese history. 

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